Where to Eat in Zona Romántica

The densest, best eating in Puerto Vallarta — from a $1 taco to a rooftop tasting menu, often on the same street.

Restaurant at night, Puerto Vallarta
Restaurant at night, Puerto Vallarta. Photo: Sharon Hahn Darlin, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0.

If you're staying in Old Town, you could eat somewhere different every meal of a two-week trip and not run out. Rather than a list of names that date quickly, here's how to eat well by type — the approach that actually works on the ground.

Street tacos & stands

The real strength of the neighbourhood. Small plates, eat standing. A food tour on day one is the fastest way to find the good ones.

Basilio Badillo — "restaurant row"

This street concentrates mid-range and upscale dining, from Mexican fine dining to international kitchens. It's where to go for a sit-down dinner.

Rooftops & sunset dining

Several Old Town restaurants trade on rooftop views west over the bay. Go for the sunset, and expect to pay for the view as much as the plate.

Seafood & the beach clubs

On and around Los Muertos, ceviche, grilled fish and aguachile served feet-from-the-sand are a Vallarta staple. Casual, fresh, and best at lunch.

The move: tacos and stands for lunch, a booked table on Basilio Badillo or a rooftop for dinner. That's how locals and long-stayers actually eat here.

Judging a place in ten seconds

What to actually look at when you're standing in front of somewhere:

When Mexicans actually eat

The big meal of the day is comida, in the mid-afternoon — roughly 2pm to 4pm — and dinner is later and lighter than you may be used to, often from 8pm. Many kitchens aimed at visitors run continuously and will feed you whenever, but you get the best of a local kitchen at its own hours. Breakfast is taken seriously and served early; a proper sit-down Mexican breakfast is one of the neighbourhood's underrated pleasures.

What to order

DishWhat it isWhere it's best
Tacos al pastorPork off a vertical spit, with pineappleStreet stands, evenings
BirriaSlow-stewed meat, served with consommé to dipStands and market stalls, mornings
Ceviche & aguachileRaw fish or prawns cured in lime and chilliBeachfront, at lunch
Pescado zarandeadoWhole fish, split and grilled over wood — a regional specialityBeach restaurants, shared between two
ChilaquilesTortilla simmered in salsa, with egg or chickenBreakfast, anywhere

Practical answers

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